EndStops

Z Axis

Y Axis - Frame

Y Axis - Carriage

Y Axis - Motor Side

Y Axis - Lead Screw

Y Axis Bearing Side

X Axis - Assembly

X Axis - Lead Screw

X Axis - Bearing Side

X Axis - Motor Side

X Axis

Mini V Wheels

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Lautr3k

Parts for this section

  • Complete parts lists by section included in the excel file below
 
X carriage - Extruder Mount
X carriage -   Lead screw side
X end - Motor Side - Outside
X end - Motor Side - Inside
X end - Bearing Side - Inside
X end - Bearing Side - Outside
Assemble 16 mini wheel kits as indicated on the diagram. Please note that only one washer is required between the 2 bearings. 
  • Plastic parts 
Y end - Bearing Side
Y end - Motor Side
Y carriage
Y endstop mount
Z motor mount
       (2 units)
40 x 20mm 90 degree bracket  
       (6 units)
20 x 20mm 68 degree - left bracket
20 x 20mm 68 degree right bracket
20 x 40mm 90 degree T bracket         (2 units)
20 x 20mm 90 degree bracket           (2 units)
20 x 20mm 22 degree left bracket
20 x 20mm 22 degree right bracket
Adjustable Z screw mount for endstop
Z endstop mount
X endstop mount
2mm motor spacer
Cable clip 
       (16 units)
Take the "x carriage - tool side" plastic part.
Optionally, add two M3 nuts, for future use. Glue, or welding with filament and a hot tip.
Add the four M5x40mm screws.
Add the four mini wheels with eight spacers and four precisions shims (precision washers). 

Add the "x carriage - nut side" part.

Ensure that all oval holes are face to face and do not overtighten the screws.

Insert four M5 locknuts in the respective holes.

You will tighten the X carriage in the next steps once its placed on the V slot linear rail.

Put the assembly on a flat surface as pictured, with the oval holes at the top. The oval holes will allow you to slightly move the screws until they are in a very snug position.

Tighten the two bottom screws firmly.

The top screws in the oval holes get tightened in the next step.

Two techniques:

 

1 - Slide the 20 x 20 x 426mm V-Slot linear rail, push the wheels on the top of the X carriage downward, and tighten the top screws while continuing to apply the downward pressure ... sometimes it works well ...

 

2 - Push the wheels down, loosely tighten the top screws, and gently slide the 20x20x426mm V-Slot profile. Push the top wheels down again, and finally tighten the top screws.

 

It is not always perfect, do not despair, and try again.

Follow the same setup as the x-carriage ... using the "x end motor side - outside" plastic part.
Add the four M5x40mm screws.
 
Add the four wheels with eight spacers and four precision shims.
 

Add the "x end motor side - inside" plastic part. Ensure that all oval holes are face to face and do not overtighten the screws.

Put the assembly on a flat surface as pictured, with the oval holes at the top.

Tighten the two bottom screws firmly.

Use one of the two methods to tighten the top screws in the oval holes.

Add the Nema17 motor with four M3x10mm screws if the shaft is less or equal to 20mm, if greater use M3x12mm screws and add the plastic "2mm motor spacer" listed above. (Or cut the shaft)

 

Add the Z axis ACME nut with three M3x10mm. If it's hard to screw, tap the three holes.

By the way, NEMA 17 refers to the size of the top place of the motor and not the rotational strength (torque) of the motor. That's measured in oz.inch or N.cm

Add the Z axis ACME nut with three M3x10mm. If it's hard to screw, tap the three holes.
Assemble the two 605zz bearings and 2 precision shims on the 373mm torquspline lead screw for the X axis as illustrated in the diagram to the left.
The direction of the leadscrew doesn't matter (RHS or LHS) since all 3D printing software allows you to select the direction of rotation to create forward movement.
We're currently experimenting with using a different size regular bearings and needle bearings and modified plastic part to see if we can eleminate the need for having the ends of the X axis lead screw machined to the 5mm and 8mm diameters which is expensive to have a machinest do this for you and tricky to machine it to +0 / -0.02mm precision. 
The X axis Torquespline anti-backlash lead screw nut is a special nut that's meant to move forward and backward when the lead screw turns in one direction or the other. It converts rotational movement into a linear (forward and backward. movement. Screw in the lead screw nut such that the flat surface it pointing towards the 2 bearrings on the end of the leadscrew.
Anti-backlash means a type of nut that prevents any additional movement of the nut beyond the precise movement that's intended by the specific fraction of a rotation.
Flex Coupler is used to connect the NEMA 17 stepper motor and the leadscrew to allow for some minor misalignment. Insert the lead screw into one end of the 1/4" to 5mm flex coupler and eventually the shaft of the stepper motor will go into to other end. Tighten the two grub screws to fasten the flex coupler to the lead screw. 
Add two T-Nuts on the X-End with two M5 x 10mm screws. Slide the X-End on the 20 x 20 x 426mm V-Slot linear rail. Adjust and tighten the screws firmly. 
Slide the X carriage on the 20x20x426mm V-Slot profile 
Add the lead screw, without securing the nut. 
If you do not have a drop in T-Nut, add a T-Nut for the X Endstop. As for the first X-End, add two T-Nuts with two M5 x10mm screws and slide. 
Adjust the space between the two X-Ends to 410.2mm and tighten the screws firmly. Do not forget to tighten the flexible coupler 2 grub screws on the shaft of the NEMA 17 stepper motor. 
Drag the X-Carriage to the bearing side. Fix the nut firmly without forcing.
Insert two M5 x 25mm screws into the leadscrew, and fasten it using two M5 locknuts.
Turn the lead screw by hand to move the carriage to the opposite side, the force must be constant, no stops or catching! If all went well, the X Axis is completed. 
Add four T-Nut on the "y-end bearing side" plastic part with four M5x8mm
Slide the y-end between the two 40 x 20 x 480mm V-Slot linear rails. Adjust and tighten the screws firmly. 
Time to prepare the 3 endstops.
You will need three end stop switches and the "X endstop mount" and the "Y endstop mount" and the "Z endstop mount" plastic parts as well as the "Adjustable Z screw mount" pastic part. You will also need an M3 x 50mm screw and one M3 Nut for the Adjustable Z scew mount.
 
First, insert the endstop switches into the endstop mounts. You should notice that one side of the endstop mount has a slightly narrower opening than the opposit side. Push the endstop switch from the side with the slightly wider opening so you push it towards the side with the slightly narrower oppening. 
You will need to solder wires to two of the  leads coming from the endstop switch. The circuit diagram for the endstop switch is provided in the Electronics section of the instructions. You can either do this later or you can do it now. If you do it now I would suggest that you solder wires that are 24" (610mm) in lenghth to allow for flexibility in positioning the wires out of the way when putting the finishing touches on your printer.
To set the endstops into place, you will need to use either four T-Nuts that were placed in the various V-slot linear rails in earlier steps or more simply using four Drop-in T-Nuts and four M5 x 8mm screws 
Next place the X endstop such that the X carriage presses the switch on the endstop switch when the X carrigage reaches the (0 , Y, Z) position. Then tighten the M5 x 8mm screw tightly.
Similarly for the Y endstop, place the Y endstop on the Y frame such that the print bed presses against the switch on the endstop switch once the print be reaches (X, 0, Z) position. Tighten the M5 x 8mm screw to hold the Y endstop mount firmly in place.
Then position the Z endstop just above the Z motor mount in the v-slot linear rail that's next the the Z axis lead screw. Place it such that X assembly (horizontal linear rail with the X carriage on it) presses the switch on the endstop switch once the the X carriage reaches the (X, Y, 0) position. Then tighten the M5 x 8mm screw that's inserted in the T-Nut.
Last step is the install the Adjustable Z screw mount. Place it on the same side as where you placed the Z endstop. It's the bottom of the M3 x 50mm screw that will press the Z endstop switch. Lower the X assembly that holds the X carriage down to it's lowest point (when hotend touchest the print bed surface). Once in this position, then screw in the M3 x 50mm screw in the Adjustable Z screw mount until it presses the Z endstop switch completely.
 
Congratulations, the mechanical build is now complete !  
Voila, everything is in place. I have no particular method to adjust the levels. Normally everything pretty much lines up by itself because of the geometry of the angle brackets, but before tightening all the screws, you must ensure that everything is a right angle.
 
Work on a stable flat surface and set a level. Test each corner with a right angle before tightening firmly.
Remove the screws from the T-nuts and push the T-Nut in line with the hole in the backets. Then put the screw through the hole into the T-Nut, and tighten using using a hex wrench without tightening too much. 
Slide the "22° bracket right" plastic part and the "22° bracket left" plastic part   by the sides to join the Z axis with the angles V-slot linear rails. 
Slide the two 20 x 20 x 440mm V-slot linear rails in the two 68° brackets on the Y frame. Tighten all screws firmly to lock-in the V-slot linear rails in place at an angle.
Place five T-Nuts on with five M5 x 8mm screws on the right side Z axis and angled V-slot linear rail, and repeate on the left side with five T-Nuts on with five M5 x 8mm screws, as pictured.
Prepare two "20 x 20mm 90 ° bracket" plastic parts by attaching four T-Nuts and four M5 x 8mm screws, two per bracket.
Attach the two "20 x 20mm 90 ° bracket" plastic parts on the 20 x 20 x 430mm V-slot linear rails. This forms the cross beam from the Z axis on the right to the Z axis on the left and gives solidity to the structure.
Slide four T-Nuts as pictured and slide the assembly along the two Z axis. Adjust and tighten all screws firmly.
Slide the X axis assembly on the two Z axis from the top of the Z axis.
Slide the two Z axis on to the Y frame assembly. Their position doesn't need to be accurate at the moment and tighten the screws enough to keep the Z axis in a vertical position. You will tighten them completly later once they are in the properposition. 
 
Add one T-Nut on the right Z Axis for the endstop. 
Take one of the "90° T-Bracket" plastic part and install three T-Nuts and three M5 x 8mm screws on the part of the bracket that fits onto the 20 x 20 x 430mm V slot linear rail. This linear rail serves as one of the Z axis. Adjust and tighten all screws firmly.  Preload the four other T-Nuts with four M5 x 8mm screws
Repeate with the other bracket:
Take the other "90° T-Bracket" plastic part and install three T-Nuts and three M5 x 8mm screws on the part of the bracket that fits onto the 20 x 20 x 430mm V slot linear rail. This linear rail serves as one of the Z axis. Adjust and tighten all screws firmly.  Preload the four other T-Nuts with four M5 x 8mm screws
Prepare the two "z motor mount" as pictured:
 
Total of two "Z motor mount" plastic parts, eight T-Nuts, eight M5 x 8mm screws, and eight M3 x 10mm.
Prepare six plastic "40x20mm 90° brackets":
 
Use a total of twenty four T-Nut and twenty four M5x8mm screw.
Slide on the 20 x 20 x 430mm T-Slot linear rail four 40 x 20mm 90° plastic brackets and four more T-Nuts as pictured. Currently do not tighten the screws too much, just to keep in place.
Add five T-Nut at the bottom and one T-Nut at the top. They will be used later on to fasten the "cable clips" plastic parts. 
Working on a flat surface, add the Y assembly with the Y carriage on it to the 20 x 20 x 430mm v slot linear rail with the 90 degree plastic brackets. These form a "T" shape once in position.
 
The add two 40 x 20 x 520mm T-Slot linear rails in parallel to the Y assembly. Adjust the brackets and tighten all screws firmly.
 
Add six T-Nut at the bottom and one at the top as indicated on the diagram, they will be used to fasten the plastic "cable clips" later on. 

Slide the two z motor mount on the 40 x 20 x 520mm V slot linear rails. Slide four T-Nuts on the 20 x 20 x 430mm v-slot linear rail, fix the two 40 x 20mm 90° brackets which were previously assembled.

 

Do not tighten the screws too much yet, just enough to keep them in place.

Finally, adjust and tighten all screws firmly.

The Y frame assembly is now complete. This part is the base of the 3D printer and the Print Bed will be fastened to the Y carriage. 
 
The NEMA 17 stepper motors for the Z motors will drive two vertical Z axis lead screws. They will lift the X axis beam on which the extruder and hot end are mounted.  
Prepare the "68° bracket right" with three T-Nuts and three M5 x 8mm screws. And then the "68° bracket left" with three T-Nut and three M5 x 8mm screws.
Once the bottom part is complete, then place two T-Nuts and lightly screw in two M5 x 8mm screws in the "68° bracket right".  Repeate the exercise with two T-Nuts and lightly screw in two M5 x 8mm screws in the "68° bracket right". 
Slide the two 68° brackets and tighten all screws firmly.
Add two T-Nut with two M5 x 8mm screws in the top holes of the right bracket.
Add two T-Nut with two M5 x 8mm screws in the top holes of the left bracket.
Fix the Nema17 stepper motor on the "Y end motor side" plastic part with four M3 x 10mm screws and add four T-Nut with four M5x8mm screws on the Y end motor side part as shown. 
Insert the Y axis lead screw assembly in the Y end bearing side plastic part and slide the motor side inward until the Nema 17 stepper motor shaft can be connected to the flex coupler.
Adjust and tighten the flex coupler grub screws firmly.

Take the "Y carriage" plastic part. Add four M3 nuts in the corners.

Place two M5 x 35mm screws in the round holes to mount the mini wheels.

Add two mini wheels with two shim, and two spacers in round holes and tighten the screws firmly.

Add the two M5 x 35mm screw in the oval holes and add two mini wheels with two shims and two spacers.  
Once the wheels are in place, fasten them with four M5 locknuts.
Push the wheels outwards and do not overtighten the screws. 
Move the lead screw nut to the "Y end bearing side". Clip the "Y carriage" on the "Y assembly". Push the wheels inwards. The idea is to have the pieces close together without connectinfg them yet. 
Apply pressure on the wheels mounted on the screws in the oval holes towards the center to grip the v-slot linear rail and tighten the screws. The idea is to have the "Y carriage" holding on the v-slot rail and slid up and down the rail.
Drag the "Y carriage" on the bearings side. Fix the lead screw nut firmly with two M5 x 25mm screws with two M5 lock-nuts without forcing.
Turn the lead screw by hand to move the "Y carriage" to the oposite side of the Y assembly, the force must be constant. Finess not force. If all went well, the Y axis is completed. 
.... and on and on  
Do not forget to install the "y endstop mount" plastic part using a T-Nut that you can slide in now and an one M5 x 6mm screw ... unless you want to install it at the end using a drop-in T-Nut
Follow the same setup as the x-carriage ... using the "x end bearing side - outside" plastic part.
Add the four M5x40mm screws.
 
Add the four wheels with eight spacers and four precision shims.
 

Add the "x end bearing side - inside" plastic part. Ensure that all oval holes are face to face and do not overtighten the screws.

Put the assembly on a flat surface as pictured, with the oval holes at the top.

Tighten the two bottom screws firmly.

Use one of the two methods to tighten the top screws in the oval holes.

Y Lead Screw
Y Lead Screw
Assemble the two 605zz bearings and 2 precision shims on the 373mm torquespline lead screw for the Y axis as illustrated in the diagram to the left.
The direction of the leadscrew doesn't matter (RHS or LHS) since all 3D printing software allows you to select the direction of rotation to create forward movement.
We're currently experimenting with using a different size regular bearings and needle bearings and modified plastic part to see if we can eleminate the need for having the ends of the X axis lead screw machined to the 5mm and 8mm diameters which is expensive to have a machinest do this for you and tricky to machine it to +0 / -0.02mm precision. 
The Y axis Torquespline anti-backlash lead screw nut is a special nut that's meant to move forward and backward when the lead screw turns in one direction or the other. It converts rotational movement into a linear (forward and backward. movement. Screw in the lead screw nut such that the flat surface it pointing towards the 2 bearrings on the end of the leadscrew.
Anti-backlash means a type of nut that prevents any additional movement of the nut beyond the precise movement that's intended by the specific fraction of a rotation.
Flex Coupler is used to connect the NEMA 17 stepper motor and the leadscrew to allow for some minor misalignment. Insert the lead screw into one end of the 1/4" to 5mm flex coupler and eventually the shaft of the stepper motor will go into to other end. Tighten the two grub screws to fasten the flex coupler to the lead screw. 
Y Carriage Assembly
Base Assembly
  Z Axis, Linear       Rails and      22 degree brackets
Completed 3D printer (mechanical)
X Carriage Assemble
Y Frame Assembly
Overview of Assembly